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Insulation Behind Exterior Shower Walls

From what I can see there is no insulation in this exterior wall. With 2 XPS youre already down in the 05 perm range - Class II vapor retarder or vapor semi-impermeable - so taking it to 3 or 4 isnt going to change the moisture dynamics much.


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One place many home builders and insulation contractors miss putting insulation is behind tub and shower enclosures located on exterior walls.

Insulation behind exterior shower walls. This stall does not go all the way to the ceiling so it has drywall from around the top of the shower to the ceiling. Thats for a 2x4 wall. Remodeling a bathroom with one exterior wall about 7 feet.

The type of siding may put limitations on the type of insulation used. Hothumid may be tricky w a shower on the exterior wall. If this house has NO insulation its worth doing the whole house not just the part behind the shower.

The remainder of the wall will be Dens Armor Plus paperless drywall. The vapor barrier should be on the inside between the insulation and drywall. As long as a product is rated as an air barrier they are good to go.

Due to budget constraints we are using fiberglass batt insulation in the walls. According code common sense Energy Star and the laws of physics if you do not insulate and air seal exterior walls behind tubs and showers BEFORE installing the tubshower then they will be cold leaky parts of the house which will waste energy sap comfort and grow mold. There is no need to vapor barrier the non-exterior walls.

As for insulation types the food chain runs. Insulating a Recessed Shampoo Niche in an Exterior Wall of a Shower Most exterior walls are 26 framing. 23rds of the exterior wall will be covered with a cement backer board the Schluter-KERDI waterproofing membrane and ceramic tile.

Or even back the new wall another 12 or so off the existing outside walls so the new studs dont contact the vapour barrier on the existing wall behind them and there is even more room for air and moisture movement. Install rubber insulation foam around each supply line to prevent condensation and then fit insulation batts between the supply lines and the exterior wall. The insulation behind shower walls should be equivalent to the insulation installed in the rest of the exterior walls.

In this case you have the ability to install two inches of insulation behind the shower niche. But you already know that from the building science video right. This would create a 3 12 space between the walls of the shower and the vapour barrier on the exterior walls.

For a 2x6 wall you could use 2 of foam which would still leave you with a 4 depth 3-12 of. Some climates are better suited to a vapor barrier on the outside. You can put rigid foam insulation between the back of the niche and the wall sheathing polyiso is R7 per inch.

In this area many builders still prefer to use fiberglass insulation like installing it using a thin insulated board product. The rapid cooling of the warm air causes it to condense and the moisture in that air becomes water. With that as a reminder kraft paper is not an air barrier it failed requiring the plumber to pull the tub out.

If you are going to insulate Roxul is better than fiberglass. They come in a variety of sizes and are made to fit in a typical stud bay. The tubshower is up against that wall and Ive been doing a bunch of research trying to figure out what my best option is for insulation that will be less likely to have mold.

Bathrooms create a lot of hot humid air. Then you could bring the face of the niche into the shower a couple of inches to compensate for the loss of depth. The supply lines should be as close to.

The insulation behind the tub or shower should be equivalent to the insulation in the rest of the exterior walls and should be covered with an air barrier of cement backer board rigid foam insulation or non-paper-faced drywall that is sealed at the edges and seams to provide a continuous air seal. This bathroom was remodeled about 20 years ago and they added this stall. It is also still better insulation than a.

I recommend buying a pre-made foam niche such as the Laticrete Hydroban niche Noble Niche Kerdi Niche from Schluter Wedi niche or USG Durock Niche. This makes a h. You should install a vapor barrier on the exterior wall.

While that is not the ideal amount of insulation it is still a good compromise and you wont experience frigid drafts. Since there is no exterior insulation and probably precious little damp. Well though the reasons it can happen may vary the basic cause of condensation on insulation in your walls is the warm moist air from inside your property meeting the cold surfaces that interface with the outside of the building.

Unfaced high density cathedral ceiling batts. I think they removed the insulation only in this area--not the entire length of the wall. For insulation to work properly on exterior walls and have a long functional lifespan the wall system needs to have all the appropriate components including an air barrier a vapor barrier vapor control layer well balanced insulation and be attached in a way that doesnt compromise the R value of the insulation.

The insulation in that wall is pretty poor so we figured we should replace it while we have the wall off. They are often covered with an air barrier of rigid foam insulation non-paper-faced drywall or cement backer board sealed at the seams and edges to provide a continuous air seal.


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